Conjectures on the Anti-Twilight Hype
I think one reason for the anti-Twilight hype is that the book is predominantly written for a rather specific -- though highly populated -- audience. Females, under 30, for whom high school is either the present or still something that feels as if yesterday, or mothers, who may be somewhat vicariously living through their children. It's the story of an ideal love, and ultimately, the fantasy of love that absolves all problems -- even fatal health complications. But, Book 1 is wonderful because of how it takes you on a gentle trip down memory lane while taking you deeper into its universe.
Of course, that isn't to say the mythos isn't derivative (the reads-like-fan-fiction factor). If one defining virtue of great fiction is to be able to convey a human emotion, this book does it... but, just like how Elizabethan English verse may typically stun more than elucidate, perhaps the appeal would be to a more specific audience who understands both the setting and language.